Improvement in sweat-leathers for hats



2 Sheets-Sheti. J. BIGELOW. Sweat-Leather for Hats.

No.198,867. Patented Jan. 1,1878.

WITNESSFS INVENTOR V M 7 WM @MGW.

. ATTORNEY NFETEHS, PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHER, WASHINGTON D Q 2 Sheets-Shet 2. J. BI GELOW.

Sweat-Leather for Hats.

No. 198,867. Patented Jan. 1, I878.

WITNESSES "JET-R3 FKOTO-LITHOGRAFNER, WlSMINGTON, D C

lowingisa specificationz" e a. a V 5 Figure 1.showsthe'spring-bands,.to which on orput into fine stiff or 1 straw, or other material.

UNI-TED S A -s PATEN Q F GE 1 JOHN B'-IGELOW,"VOHIV YPHILADELPYHITA, PENNSYLVANIA f "IMPROVEMENT 1N SWEATg-LEATHERSTOR. HATS." f

l Specificationforming part of Letters Patentllo. 198 ,S6 7i, dated January 1, 1878; application H 1 mater- 6,1877. t

To dllwhom dining concern p a i V Be it known that I, JOHN'BIGELOW, of the city oil Phi1adelphia,in the county of Phila-"Q delphia and State of Pennsylvania,have in-1 vented certain new and useful Improvements in, sweat Leathers vfor lilats, o'f which the folthe leathers are attached, the ferrule for securing the ends of the spring-rod, and method of l joining the same. Fig. 2,,shows .one way of joining the spring-band to the "sweat-leather according to presentinvention. .Fig. 3 an end view of Fig. 2, brought .into, position for.

attachment to; the hat-body; Fig. 4 showsa'n; oil-cloth. spring-band attached to aisweatleather according to present invention. Fig; ,5shows an oil-clothspring-band prepared by ,foldingthe cloth overthe spring-rod, and sewing the foldclose 'to the rod. 2 Fig.3 j sh ows'. anothersmethod of sewing togetherthe sweat-f leather A, oil-cloth B, and spring rod O' ac cordingto present invention when thes'prin rod .0 ,andoil-clothfBare not prepared as in 'Figfi. Big. 7 is an under View of Fig. 6.1 ,lFfig. 8, is a view. of Fig.6,when folded and' ready for attachment to-a-hat. jFig. 9. shows the stitchon thelunder side of Fig. 1 0. I Fig.

- l0 is anend view of Fig.4,the upper edge.

flaring, so'that the .sewingwill not come in; contact'with the head of the wearer when the: prepared sweat-leather is placed in a hat.- Eig ll shows a sweat-leather with the rod" 0 stitcheddirectly to its edge, and the covering B either sewed orpasted independently to the back of the leatheriA. Fig 12 shows apre pared.sweat-leatherlcomplete, Fig. i13is. a

perspective view, edge of the leather, i a

I Thefobject of thisinventionis to produce a showing a cord? along the h at sweat-leather with spring-band and tack- .ing-stripsmade circular. or straight by'me chanical means, and in readiness to be .used soft .hats of felt,

lhe method now in use of uniting a sweatleather and springband is to tack, by long} stitches made through and to the hat-body, the small spring-band shown in- Fig. 1, and. then to-fit the leathers, to, the hat,.and hand sew the edge of the leather to the spring band.

- o'f theobjections to this methodare,

driving'the needle through the. leather; that since theclo'th covering of theiwhalebone' or reed rod is securedlby pasting when its tacking to the hat gets loose, the-rod itself "becomes loose' and is with difficulty secured; thatwhen an oil-cloth covering is used forthe rod the hand-sewing defaces and mars the glazed surface of the oil-cloth wheremost exposed, since the sewer'has to push the needle throughit inlorder to secure ahold for attaching the leather. a I

h It is the purpose of the present invention to remove, these difficulties, as will now-be set out and explained indetaih a By means of a Blanchard oversear'n ng or any other zigzag sewing-machine are united the endsof ,the sweat-leather already fitted to the. size of hatijrequired-by the Blanchard oversearn', patented September .7 1875, or else by hand-sewing." a Using the same sewing-machine, having the sWeat-leatherthus, a circular band, the

rawfedge of the leather band A is sov placed 1 that it will lie over the spring-rod O ofthe bandlB, as shown in Fig.1. g ,j, The position of these parts will be as shown in Fig. 2. lhen feed through the-machine, so that the needle will take outside alternately theleather edge,1 but withinthe rodO and through the cloth covering B of the spring- .band, then within the leather edge, but without the rod. 0. and its covering B. 7 Before sewing all around the leather the operator should connect the ends of .the rod C by the ferrule D, Fig. -1, or else pass the ends of the rod by each other,properly arranging and lapping the covering strip B where the ends meet; then finish the sewing. When thejcovering B is tacked into thehat, or is: brought L'arouiid parallel to the leather A', it will be found that the sewing isrolled over, as in Fig; 3, so

.that .itwill not. come into contact with the head of the wearer of the hat, while the'rod (J itself, and not simply itscovering, securely fastened to the leather." a t Ifi gs. 6, 7, and 8 are upper, under, and folded views of another method of carrying out this invention; In these the spring-band is not without the edge of the leather A, each time cloth or other covering for the spring-rod where the edge of the rod is wanted to show and the leather, as well as its covering, and so time within the rod 0 and through the coverpasting, to the body of the leather A. In orleather to the hat, a perfectly-prepared sweatwhich cannot act as a conductor of perspiraprepared as in Fig. 1; but the leather A, covering B, and spring-rod G are each separate, and are united by one sewing. It is made by placing the cloth B under the edge of the leather A, and the rod 0 beneath both. The stitch is then taken alternately within and through the covering B, and alternately on one side, then the other, of the rod 0.

Fig. 5 shows an oil-cloth or other covering, secured to the spring-rod O by stitching instead of by pasting, as in Fig. 1.

Figs. 4, 9, and 10 show still a third method of preparing a sweat-leather according to the present invention, and is well adapted to oilthe edge of the band to be especially light. It is made by placing the leather A over the cloth B, with its edge close to the rod 0, as is shown in Fig. 4, and then stitching within and without the edge of the leather, but each ing B.

The stitching as it appears on the under side shown in Fig. 9.

The edge of the band can be made to set off or flare out, as is shown in Fig. 10, by stretching the edge of the leather or setting back the spring-rod.

If preferred, these can be sewed with a straight instead of over-edge stitch, although the over-edge stitch, besidesits other advantages, will stand 'the strain of stretching and blocking.

Fig. 11 shows the rod 0 stitched directly to the edge of the leather A, and the coveringB secured in any proper manner, by stitching or der that it, B, may be used in securing the leather, as shown in Fig. 12, is thus produced, which is adapted to either stiff or soft felt or straw hats, when the stitching of the leather directly to the body of the hat, as is described in my application of even date herewith, would be objectionable, from the liability of the perspiration to follow the sewing-threads, and thus soil the outer finish of the hat.

' The appearance of the band or leather thus prepared is better, and its durability greater, than when hand-sewed. It is much more cheaply made, and can be as easily tacked to the hat-body by an independent stitching,

tion.

If preferred, the bands can be prepared in straight strips, and afterward fitted, united, and finished by hand, and still retain the advantages before referred to.

A cord can be fed along the edge of the leather, so as to cover it, and yet be secured by the same stitching, as shown by e in Fig. 13.

The spring-rod G so supports the circular band, as it is being stitched to it, that no difficulty will be experienced in stitching around the circle, since the rod keeps the edge of the circular leather band up in the line of the feed.

Under some circumstances or for certain uses, instead of a spring-rod, there may be substituted twine, wire, or a slightly-projecting edge made of tape or folded cloth; or a cord on the plain or folded edge can be employed with good results.

By my method a sweat-leather can be prepared in less than two minutes, when from twenty to thirty minutes are required by hand.

My leathers are prepared free from the hats, while by the old way they are not.

My sewing is perfectly regular, indeed bet- .ter, without prick-marking.

By my method the rod itself is stitched to cannot get free, Figs, 1, 4, 6, and 11.

Oil-cloth-covered rods can be sewed to the leathers without injury to their exposed surface, while the edges of the leathers can be corded as nicely as by the best hand-work manship.

7 Having thus described'my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. A sweat-leather for hats with an attach in g-slip and spring-band connected to the slip, all combined and prepared substantially in the manner and for the purposes set forth.

2. The combination of a' spring-rod band with the edge of a sweat-leather by a stitch within and without the edge of said leather, but encircling said rod, substantially as 1 described.

3. The combination of a spring-rod to and with the edge of a sweat-leather by stitching within and without the edge of the leather, but within the spring-rod, and each time through the lapped covering of the same, substantially as and for the purposes described.

4. The combination of a spring-rod to and with the edge of a sweat-leather, with a cord along the edge of said leather, substantially as and for the purposes described.

5. The process of uniting an independent attaching slip having a spring -rod, or its equivalent, substantially as described, to the edge of a sweat-leather by overseaming or zigzag sewing, substantially in the manner and for the purposes set forth.

6. As a new article of manufacture, a circular sprin g-band sweat-leather, the several parts united and combined by overseaming or zigzag sewing, substantially in the manner set forth. 7

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my own I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

JOHN BIGELOVV. 

